Why this journal exists

After years of driving the back roads between Cape Town, the Garden Route, and the Karoo, I started keeping notes that went beyond the usual travel guides. Where the tar actually ends, which farm stalls still bake roosterkoek worth stopping for, how a gravel road behaves after a storm. This site is where those notes live.

The idea is simple: give self-drive travellers the kind of detail you only get from someone who has done the route recently. Not a polished brochure, but honest trip reports with distances, fuel stops, and a clear sense of what is worth the detour.

The principles I stick to

  • Every route guide is based on an actual drive, not on second-hand descriptions. If I mention a pothole or a pass, I have been through it recently.

  • Accommodation recommendations range from bush camps to guesthouses, but they are always places I have stayed at or inspected myself.

  • Honesty over promotion. If a famous viewpoint is overrated or a lodge is past its prime, I say so plainly.

What you can expect

Regular posts cover weekend itineraries from Johannesburg and Durban, birding spots along the coast, and interviews with local guides and lodge owners. Each piece includes rough distances, fuel notes, and practical advice on road conditions. If you have a route question, the contact page is open, and I answer every query with the same detail I would want before a long drive.

The people behind the route notes

This journal is not a content farm. It is written by people who have actually slept in those bush camps, waited out the afternoon thunderstorms, and learned which passes turn into trouble after a wet winter. Meet the small team that keeps the notes honest.

Lloyd Nkuna

Founder, lead route scout

Lloyd spent twelve years running self-drive tours before he started writing any of this down. He knows the pothole between Barrydale and Ladismith by name, and he will tell you straight whether a gravel road is worth the dust in your boot.

Drives a 2015 Hilux with 280,000 km on the clock. Prefers farm stalls that still cut their own roosterkoek.

Megan van der Merwe

Field editor, birding contributor

Megan handles the coastal routes and the birding logs. She has paddled the Serpentine River more times than she can count and keeps a running list of where the fish eagles nest each season.

Carries binoculars and a field notebook on every trip. Her notes on the Wilderness lakes have saved readers hours of guessing.

Thabo Mokoena

Route researcher, Karoo specialist

Thabo grew up in the Karoo and knows its back roads the way most people know their own street. He maps the weekend itineraries from Johannesburg and Durban, and he is the one who checks fuel stops before you need them.

His rule: if a town does not have a decent coffee shop, at least make sure it has a working petrol pump.

How we keep the notes reliable

Every route guide on this site comes from an actual drive, not from a brochure. We log the date, the vehicle, and the road conditions at the time of writing. If a pass was fine in March but sketchy after August rains, we say so.

When we recommend a guesthouse or a bush camp, it is because one of us has stayed there. When we warn about a stretch of gravel, it is because we drove it and wished we had known beforehand. That is the whole point of this journal.

Questions travellers ask before heading out

After years of driving these routes, I hear the same questions again and again. Here are honest answers based on actual trips, not brochure copy.

Is a regular sedan fine for the Garden Route and Karoo roads?

For the main tar roads between Cape Town, George, and Knysna, a sedan is perfectly fine. The trouble starts when you leave the N2 for gravel farm roads or attempt passes like the Swartberg after rain. If you plan to explore the back roads, a high-clearance vehicle makes the trip far more relaxed. You will not need a 4x4 for most routes, but ground clearance matters more than you think.

How do road conditions change after rain?

Gravel roads in the Karoo can become slippery and corrugated after a downpour. Some farm roads turn into thick mud that is hard to get through even with high clearance. Tar roads usually drain well, but watch for potholes near the edges, especially on the R62. If rain is forecast, check with local farmers or guesthouse owners before committing to a remote stretch.

What should I pack for a self-drive trip through the Karoo?

Beyond the obvious clothes and water, carry a spare tyre in good condition, a basic tool kit, and a paper map as backup. Cell reception disappears in the mountains, so download offline maps before you leave. A cooler box is worth its weight for keeping drinks cold between farm stalls. And always have cash, since some smaller shops and stalls do not accept cards.

Are the farm stalls along the R62 worth stopping at?

Some are, some are not. The ones that have been around for decades usually serve proper roosterkoek with apricot jam and strong coffee. Newer places tend to focus on souvenirs and overpriced preserves. My rule is simple: if you see more locals than tourists, stop. If the parking lot is full of tour buses, give it a miss and find the smaller place down the road.

How much time should I allow for the Garden Route?

Most people try to rush it in two days, which means they miss the best parts. I recommend at least four days if you want to stop at the lakes, do a short hike, and actually enjoy the coastal towns. The driving distances are short, but the detours are what make the trip memorable. Give yourself room to pull over when the light is good or a farm stall looks promising.

Can I ask about a specific route I am planning?

Absolutely. I answer every route question personally, whether it is about a weekend drive from Johannesburg or a longer trip along the coast. Tell me your vehicle, how many days you have, and what you enjoy, and I will give you a realistic plan with honest notes on road conditions and worthwhile stops. Send your question through the contact page and I will get back to you with practical advice.

Send a route question

Trusted by the people who know these roads

Over the years, the routes I drive have been shaped by conversations with lodge owners, guides, and travellers who keep coming back. These are some of the names I work with and recommend without hesitation.

Karoo Country Stays

Guesthouses and farm stays between Prince Albert and Matjiesfontein.

Garden Route Birding

Local guides who know the lakes and estuaries around Wilderness and Knysna.

Swartberg 4x4 Hire

High-clearance vehicles for the passes, with honest advice on conditions.

R62 Farm Stall Collective

The stalls that still bake roosterkoek fresh and keep the kettle on.

Cape Town Weekend Drives

Small-group operators running day trips into the Cederberg and the winelands.

Bush Camp Network

Simple campsites along the Karoo routes where the stars are the main event.

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